As the plane angled into the airport in Palma, Mallorca, I had a sense of déjà vu. I had seen that scene so many times in the popular TV show, Mallorca Files, that I felt like I had been there before. I felt this many times in the first few days, when I expected the stars of the show, Max (Julian Looman) and Miranda (Ellen Rhys), to pop out of a doorway or speed down an alley in Max’s convertible BMW.
Our week-long October trip to Mallorca was a highlight of a longer month-long journey through southern Spain and Morocco. This was our first trip to Mallorca (also spelled Majorca), the largest of the four Balearic Islands in this Spanish archipelago.
Our hotel, Petit Monti-sion, was on the edge of Old Town, intermingled with grand Gothic buildings, Baroque facades, and Art nouveau structures. Unassuming doorways cracked open to reveal enticing private patios dripping with fountains, pillars, and arches. Green topiary, hanging pots dripping with bougainvillea and jasmine framed lemon trees laden with fruit. Moorish touches hinted at the rich history of Mallorca, which, thanks to its strategic location on a speck of rock in the Mediterranean Sea. Maritime trade routes brought influences from the Iberian Peninsula, North Africa, and distant civilizations.
After a brief late afternoon stroll in waning sunlight, I was smitten. I looked forward to exploring more of the historic part of town, including a visit to the Gaudí-designed Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma. We passed a few local citizens hurrying home and watched mothers taking their children to a nearby playground.
The next morning, dazed by the landscape around the church, I wondered why the milieu was so different. I spotted the culprit: hulking white shells of cruise ships, three of them. It was as though thousands of extras had been invited to a film production. I’ve got nothing against cruise ships, but the tiny historic district was clearly not big enough to absorb the crowds. I saw lines snaking into the church and I couldn’t get tickets. Abandoning that idea, we pushed through to the center of town. Spending an hour or two listening to an audio tour on the VoiceMap app allowed us to enjoy an insider’s interpretation of the town.
My primary goal was to hike some of the GR221 hiking trail. We rented a car and drove along the winding, narrow roads along the steep cliffs of the coast to Deia, gobsmacked by the stunning views. Tourists spilled into the narrow streets of the tiny town of Deia but within a few hours, the day trippers dissipated, and we could walk around in peace.
The Hotel des Puig, a luxury boutique hotel that retained some old-world charm, was a bit hard to find in a tangle of exceedingly narrow cobblestone lanes. Once we did, they directed us to their small parking lot. This was like gold as there was no street parking to be found. Our room was spacious with a private bath and pleasant view. During the summer months, I’m sure the pool would be welcome.
In the afternoon, we slipped down the hill to Cala de Deia, a rocky cove below the town. A narrow strip of sand enticed sunbathers, while a rustic café served less intrepid visitors.
We enjoyed lovely fresh seafood on the outdoor patio at Ca na Marca Restaurant. The air was the perfect temperature for alfresco dining with the backdrop of the mountain looming over us.
The Dry Stone Route (Ruta de la Petra en Sec), also known as the GR221, is a long-distance (150 km/93 mi) hike that winds through mountain towns across the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains from Port d’Andratx to Pollenca. We’ve done several long-distance hikes around the world, but knew we didn’t have the time to do this one. We compromised by planning to spend three days on the trail to get a feel for it.
Summers can be uncomfortably warm, and even in October, when we were there, it was about 80 F/26 C. This hike is best done in spring or fall.
See Planning a Tour of Mont Blanc hike in Inga’s Adventures
Our first day of hiking was a moderate loop of 5.5 miles from the town of Valldemosa that connects to the GR221 for a short distance. In Alltrails, this is called the Valldemosa-Es Caragoli-Cova s’ermita Guillem trail (details below). The trail loops around Es Caragoli Peak in the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains.
A steady climb through olive groves and a few goats eventually reached a rocky, exposed ridge with fantastic views of the sea. We peered down and saw Deia very far down. Some sections were quite steep, and some were narrow but not technical.
A stone wall enclosed a fantastic hermit’s cave that was worth taking a few minutes to explore, as it almost looked like it could still be inhabited. There were seats carved from rock, windows, and everyday artifacts.
There were a few people on the trail at the start, but not so many that we couldn’t spread out comfortably. That changed on the GR221 segment, which was noticeably more crowded.
Trail Details
Alltrails: Valldemosa-Es Caragoli-Cova s’ermita Guillem, 5.5 mi, 1863 feet elevation gain. Parking was easy in a neighborhood near the trailhead
We abandoned our second hiking day, which was to take us from Deia to Soller, because of a head cold I developed. Instead, we took a leisurely drive to Soller. The stone walls and steps invited a wander around the bustling historic downtown and neighborhoods where lush bougainvillea and potted plants provided photogenic accents of color.
We checked into the Alcazar Hotel, a thoroughly modern luxury hotel where it was warm enough to sit by the pool. I channeled healing energy, hoping I’d feel better so we could hike the next day.
Less inviting was the small, touristy port area that was serviced by a train bringing day tourists from Palma, presumably fed by the cruise ships. We didn’t realize how much day-visitors dominated the area until we returned to the downtown area for dinner. All the shops were closed in the previously bustling business core, and the place looked deserted.
Relieved to feel better the next day, I set off to hike another section of the GR221 with Steve. We found a loop in Alltrails called the Baranc de Biniaraix – Camí Vell trail. It differed greatly from the Valldemosa loop. Instead of open, expansive views of the sea, we walked on paths constructed from intricate stonework as we ascended the incredible Biniaraix ravine soaring above our heads. We passed many houses nestled into terraced olive groves that didn’t appear to have any road access, just the long path. Similar to the Valldemosa loop, we passed only a few people on the first part of the trail, but in the section that overlapped with the GR221, the crowds thickened quite a bit.
Trail Details
Alltrails: Barranc de Biniaraix – Camí Vell – GR221, 5 miles, 1551 feet elevation gain. Per the instructions in Alltrails, it’s not possible to park near the start of the track. Instead, park near the Institut d’ Educació Secundària Guillem Colom Casasnoves in the outskirts of Soller (Google maps location).
We were out of time for hiking but still had a full day to get back to Palma. Rather than backtrack, which would have been a more efficient 40 minutes, we decided to make a big loop so we could explore more of the island. Our two-hour route took us northeast through Fornalutz and Escorca to Pollenca through seriously gorgeous mountainous terrain with glimpses of sea views. From Pollenca, we hooked southwest through the middle of the island, where the terrain flattened into rolling hills and agricultural land and towns proliferated.
Mallorca surprised me. Beyond the beaches and cruise-ship crowds, I found an island best experienced on foot. Historic stone paths connect mountain villages, olive groves, and sea views. I’d return in a heartbeat to walk more of the GR221 in cooler weather—or simply to linger longer in the places we passed through too quickly.
See Savoring Morocco: A Journey Through Spices and Stories to see another segment of this trip.
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