Backpacking Around Tahoe With Kids in Tow

Chase exploring

Chase exploring

“This is awesome!” seven year old Chase exclaimed excitedly. What got him so excited? Disneyland? Action figures? Trucks? No, he was building a dam in a shallow creek to catch the elusive fingerling trout slipping by. We were deep in the Granite Chief Wilderness on a multi-day backpacking trip and his face reflected pure joy as he stated emphatically, “We don’t get to spend enough time with you”, all the reward that we needed.
Wilderness backpacking with kids? Yes, it is possible, lots of fun and highly rewarding. Although my husband, Steve, and I don’t have kids we are godparents to two children, Taira and Chase.  We could hardly wait for them to get big enough to shoulder a backpack so we could share our love of the outdoors with them.  Not personally knowing many adults who backpack in the wilderness as we do, much less with children, I felt like we were in uncharted territory.

Taira, Inga, Steve, Chase on the Pacific Crest Trail

Taira, Inga, Steve, Chase on the Pacific Crest Trail

We decided to ease into it, but I had a long-range plan. When Chase was four and Taira was six, we ventured to a wilderness trailhead of the Pacific Crest Trail at Barker Pass, near Lake Tahoe.  A level grassy area, picnic tables and toilet facilities were perfect for our first gentle foray into the backwoods. We pitched our tents and went on a short hike of about two miles roundtrip. We saw beautiful wildflowers and panoramic views of Lake Tahoe—great for the adults but a big yawn for the kids. They were much more interested in sticks, dirt and rocks with the high point of their day being the novelty of drinking from the tube of our hydration packs.  We had the kids wear light daypacks with snacks and water to instill the need for taking responsibility for themselves.  That night slabs of ham steaks sizzled on our Coleman stove and we all dug in to dinner, including mashed potatoes and salad from our handy cooler. Later we made gooey s’mores as the sun set over Lake Tahoe. The kids were a little concerned about sleeping in the tent with the inky darkness all around, but the chemical snap-lightsticks I brought eased their fears with a comforting glow that lasted several hours. The next morning we rose with the sun and feasted on blueberry pancakes whipped up by Steve before packing up for the drive home. One night under the stars was the perfect amount of time.

Chase & Taira on the trail to Fallen Leaf Lake

Chase & Taira on the trail to Fallen Leaf Lake

The next year we camped in our tents at the Fallen Leaf Campground near Lake Tahoe, a dedicated campground with picnic tables, fire rings, and restrooms. We enjoyed the short, ¼ mile hike to Fallen Leaf Lake and the kids loved catching crayfish in the creek. This year they had their own hydration packs and mostly carried them with a minimum of complaining. By this time Taira had become a Girl Scout and had learned some tricks, such as how to make omelets by putting eggs and cheese in a zip lock baggie and dropping it into a pot of boiling water on the Coleman stove. Simple food does taste better outdoors. We all agreed that the noisy campground was motivation for seeking a wilderness adventure next year. One night out was again ideal.

In the shadow of the Little Needle

In the shadow of the Little Needle

By the third year we decided to take the plunge and backpack into the wilderness. To avoid some of the strenuous uphill treks so frequently found in the Sierra Nevada, we elected to take the Cable Car to the top of Squaw Valley. This still entailed a fairly laborious hike to the top of Emigrant Pass, which was more tiring for the adults than the kids.  Then we dropped over the backside into the Granite Chief Wilderness and headed to Little Needle Lake. The kids kept up a good pace, though Chase preferred the freedom of hiking pack-less and tried every way imaginable to shed his daypack. Taira managed to keep her daypack on for the entire hike, snacking from her supply of trail mix along the way. The kids loved to pump water through the filter into our bottles and cooking pots and this became their primary camp chore. Everyone enjoyed swimming in the cool, clear waters of Little Needle Lake, afterwards sunning ourselves on big, warm granite boulders as we watched the waning sun slip into the headwaters of the American River. One night was definitely enough for this initial venture into the backcountry, and we all agreed that the peace and quiet of the wilderness was worth the effort.

Pumping water at the creek

Pumping water at the creek

The following year we were inspired to tackle two nights in the wilderness. This was perfect for Taira who accomplished all the activities needed to get her Girl Scout Backpacking Badge on this trip. She prepared a packing checklist, sketched some of the sights and helped with camp chores. She was tall enough for a real backpack with a waist strap this year and reveled in all the pockets in which to stash rocks and other treasures. Chase loved his child-sized walking stick, which was alternately a sword, a poker, and a pointer, just using a little imagination. We repeated our ride up the Cable Car at Squaw Valley, and spent the first night near Little Needle Lake. The second day we hiked just over 4 miles to Whiskey Creek Camp, an historical Basque sheepherder’s camp. The old bunkhouse, storage shed and oven were fun to explore. Regulations prohibit camping within 250 feet of the structures so we spread out in one of the spacious campsites that are often used by equestrian groups.  Hours slipped as we surveyed Whiskey Creek, investigated a deep eddy with fingerling trout, rearranged rocks in a shallow section and relaxed in the warm afternoon sun. That night we prepared a delicious freeze-dried meal of creamy chicken and noodles, boiling the water to rehydrate the meal within minutes on our tiny, lightweight gas stove.

Chase, stoking the fire

Chase, stoking the fire

As darkness fell Steve and Chase collected firewood and built up a roaring campfire in the fire ring. Chase loved to stoke it up, while Taira perfected roasting bubbling marshmallows on a stick. We were pleased that the kids handled the hiking so easily and still had great energy to explore around our campsite, help with camp chores and tell stories over the campfire well past dark. Taira even volunteered that she could have carried more weight in her backpack, so next year we’ll keep that in mind. Chase’s daypack didn’t look comfortable and we realized that even if he used a daypack we should get one better suited for hiking, preferably with a waist strap. The next day we breakfasted on powdered orange drink, mini-bagels and hot instant oatmeal with dried cranberries. We broke camp and hiked just over four miles to Alpine Meadows Road, where we had left a car, pausing for lunch at the popular Five Lakes area.

Taira, plotting our course on the map

Taira, plotting our course on the map

I used to bring items to help pass the time, such as a ball so we could play catch, but found that we never needed extra equipment. Nature is so full of exciting raw materials that a child just needs time to explore. Backpacking and camping near a lake or a stream, can keep a kid entertained for hours. Skipping rocks, watching fish, swimming, walking in a shallow streambed, and exploring the shore are all enjoyable ways to pass the time.

Adults should be aware that the younger the child, the shorter the comfortable hiking distance and the less they can carry. Start out with short distances and focus on making the experience enjoyable for adults and children alike. Kids can carry snacks, a water bottle and perhaps some clothing or a pillow, and each year they should be able to carry more weight.

A fully loaded pack

A fully loaded pack

Experts recommend limiting the weight children carry to 15% of their body weight (www.backpacksafe.com). Backpack selection can be tricky for younger kids. A daypack can be used but make sure it fits comfortably. Once it’s filled with lightweight yet bulky items, such as a pillow, the shape of the pack can change dramatically. A waist strap is useful for keeping the weight well distributed and stabilized. Older school-aged kids can be outfitted with a pack designed for children, or a small adult pack.

With a little planning, a lot of patience and enthusiasm for the outdoors families can enjoy the solitude and beauty of the wilderness. Seeing our godchildren so at home in the backcountry and knowing we are building a huge cache of memories is all we need to excitedly plan the next year’s adventure.

TIPS for Backpacking with Kids:
What to Pack:
If the group includes two adults and two children, expect that the adults are going to be doing the heavy lifting, so the lightest weight gear you can afford is essential. You may be able to cram 2 adults and 2 children into a 3-person tent if the kids are little, or use two 2-person tents.

Food:
Pay careful attention to food, making sure that you have adequate calories, good variety and foods the kids like. Freeze dried food makes the most sense due to its featherweight. Be sure to check calorie counts on the packages as different items can provide significantly different calories. You don’t want to labor all day and find that you have an inadequate 200-calorie meal for an adult. Neither do you want to haul all that food and find that Junior has a 500-calorie meal that he can’t possibly finish, resulting in wastage.  We usually target 350-400 calories/person for dinner. We pack healthy foods but found that a handy supply of a favorite candy can be an excellent motivator on the trail, i.e. “Just a little longer and then we’ll stop for some Skittles”, but perhaps your child can be enticed with the promise of cheese and crackers.

Water:
Camping near reliable sources of water minimizes one of the heaviest items you can pack: water. We use a water filter to assure a safe drinking water supply.

Packing Checklist:
Be sure to use a checklist so you don’t forget anything. You may have been able to wing it when you were responsible only for yourself, but with kids your trip will be much smoother if you have everything you need. Checklists are plentiful on the internet, such as backpacker.com (http://www.backpacker.com/gear/checklist/)

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Information:

Getting There:
Barker Pass
From Highway 89 on the West Shore of Lake Tahoe, take Barker Pass Road into Blackwood Canyon. The first nine miles are paved. One half mile further, where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the road, is the trailhead with a large parking lot.

Fallen Leaf Campground:
From Highway 89 on the West Shore of Lake Tahoe, take Fallen Leaf Road. Reservations are recommended for tent sites and can be made through the National Recreation Reservation Service at www.recreation.gov or call 1-877-444-6777.

Granite Chief Wilderness:
Start at Squaw Valley USA and take the Cable Car to the top. Contact Squaw Valley for current Cable Car ticket prices at www.squaw.com or call (530) 583-6955.

IMG_2985The Tahoe National Forest manages the 25,680-acre Granite Chief Wilderness. Permits are not required for overnight use in the Granite Chief Wilderness. However, California Campfire Permits are required if using a portable campstove or building a woodfire. Permits and information about current fire restrictions are available from any Ranger Station or California Dept. of Forestry office.  More information can be found at the USDA Forest Service website at http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu/recreation/wilderness/granitechief.shtml.

Schaffer, Jeffrey. The Tahoe Sierra: A Natural History Guide to 112 Hikes in the Northern Sierra. Berkeley, CA:  Wilderness Press, 2001.  http://www.amazon.com/Tahoe-Sierra-Natural-History-Northern/dp/0899972209/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1250869135&sr=8-1

Backpacking to Lovely Loch Leven Lakes

Inga, Steve, Chase, Taira

Inga, Steve, Chase, Taira

“How much longer? Are we almost there?” The familiar refrain from our godchildren came, not in a car, but in the wilderness, as they shouldered heavy backpacks and bent toward the granite formations as we neared the summit, having gained 1,000 feet of elevation in about 2 miles.

Chase

Chase

We struck out late on a Friday afternoon, the five of us fresh and full of energy. The youngest member of our group at ten, Chase, was in the lead at a full gallop. My husband, Steve, followed close behind. Twelve year old Taira, her mother, Laura, and I brought up the rear. As usual for a Tahoe hike, the elevation gain began almost immediately and Chase was soon gasping for air, adjusting to the thin air at 6,500 feet of elevation. After a short rest to catch our breath we moved on, alternating between smooth granite in full sun and cool, shaded pine forest, crossing railroad tracks and streams along the way.

Taira

Taira

Our destination was Loch Leven Lakes, 2.8 miles from the trailhead, located near the Rainbow Lodge on the Yuba River, long a landmark on busy Highway 80. The hum of the freeway dissipated as we made tracks on the trail, which began on granite slabs sculpted to a smooth sheen by glaciers long ago, rolling into slim gullies before the next rise of granite. The varying terrain—granite, gully, forest—added interest and made for pleasant, if taxing, hiking. We gave thanks to the alders, Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine, incense cedar and maples for providing cooling cover, the pines perfuming our tramp through the woods, and gazed wondrously at the surrounding peaks of the Sierra when we broke out into the open.

Upper Loch Leven Lake

Upper Loch Leven Lake

We looked down at the thin ribbon of the freeway far below, then topped out and dropped to the other side of the ridge, where we entered a wonderland of high alpine beauty. The clear mountain air was still and quiet, pierced momentarily by the shrill cry of a hawk.  Warm granite boulders surrounded a small, glassy lake, beckoning us down the hill. We clambered down steep steps, suddenly full of energy, excitedly pointing out potential campsites. Taira and Chase proclaimed that they were in charge of site selection so we let them lead us around an unpromising bushy side of Upper Loch Leven Lake. Suddenly they shouted, “We found it,” and we saw they had, indeed, found the perfect spot for three tents next to a low spot on the shore, with acres of granite spread behind the camp just waiting to be explored. A flock of ducks paddled over to welcome us to our camp, ambling on to the shore to see if we had any handouts.

Pitching the tent

Pitching the tent

Wanting to beat the setting sun we set up camp, the kids throwing themselves into pitching  the tent, finishing ahead of all the adults. Their favorite camp chore is pumping water through our hand operated filter, so after drawing straws to see who could pump first we agreed on an alternating schedule. We heated up a pot of water on our camp stove and reconstituted Turkey Tettrazini, enhanced with a serving of mashed potatoes made from dried potato flakes. Taira took charge of dessert, turning freeze dried cheesecake into a soft custardy pudding that we all enjoyed. After dinner we went for a walk among the large granite slabs and deep gullies leading to another small lake fronted by cliffs, shimmering in the glow of sunset. Returning to camp at dusk we noticed quite a bit of movement just above the surface of the lake. When our eyes adjusted we could see dozens of small bats dancing above the water, swooping and cavorting as they caught myriad insects for dinner. We enjoyed the performance for a long time before the deepening shadows and evening chill drove us into our tents as millions of twinkling stars winked down at us.

Climber dude

Climber dude

As the sun warmed our tent we stirred, and finally emerged as the first day hikers passed by the other side of the lake, most stopping only briefly as they headed to the other two, larger lakes. We breakfasted on granola with reconstituted powdered milk,  instant oatmeal, tea and orange Tang, the perfect substitute for orange juice in the backcountry. Laura and I wanted to pack up and move our camp to the large lake nearby, but we were outvoted by the rest of the group, so we opted for a day hike to explore our surroundings. Actually two day hikes. First the kids roamed around the granite formations near the camp, shouting to us to come and join them. We were treated to a spectacular view of Rattlesnake Mountain, a 7,841 foot peak on the other side of Highway 80. The small cliffs provided good climbing experience for the kids, who practiced finding good toeholds and handholds among the cracks, chimneys and sharp edges. Chase declared that it was “way more fun to climb on real rock,” a statement that any rock climber would agree with, eschewing plastic holds for the real thing.

Middle Loch Leven Lake

Middle Loch Leven Lake

After lunch, consisting of ramen noodles, string cheese and salami, we set off with day packs, in search of the other lakes. The lid of Steve’s pack conveniently converts to a day pack so we carried our swim suits, tiny towels, water, sunscreen and some snacks. Middle Loch Leven Lake was only a quarter mile away and we found it delightful. Long and leggy, it curves like a sickle to conform to the topography, the opposite shore lined with low, rugged granite boulders, anchored at one end with high cliffs, and sporting several rock islands. The few campsites held several tents, making this neighborhood more high density than ours. We noted a trail marker indicating that several trails branched from here, one descending thousands of feet in elevation to the North Fork of the American River.

High Loch Leven Lake

High Loch Leven Lake

We continued on to the confusingly named High Loch Leven Lake (not to be confused with Upper Loch Leven Lake, where we were camped), not even a mile from Middle Loch Leven Lake. We had heard that this was the most scenic and desirable lake, but found the many campsites strung along the shore to be overcrowded and off-putting, and were glad we had been overruled and had our private lake to ourselves. We did enjoy swimming in the chilly waters, and many people dove off the prominent island in the middle of the lake. We lay on the hot granite and soaked up the sun, listening to the sounds families with children splashing the water, young adults diving off the rocks, dogs carousing and everyone generally enjoying themselves.

Chase & Taira scrambling

Chase & Taira scrambling

On the return trip Chase led us on an adventure around the pathless side of the middle lake. We found other lakes, unnamed on the map, and tried to follow the shoreline of Middle Loch Leven Lake . When the cliffs met the water we clambered up and up and up, hoping we wouldn’t have to backtrack. Steve, always the lover of bushwhacking, found a way through the crags, passing a small pond, then larger ponds where little used campsites could be found. Miraculously we stumbled into the back side of our camp, completely by happy accident, as the kids looked hot and flushed. We dove into our lake finding it significantly warmer than the other lake and swam from side to side, reveling in the refreshing clear water. 

IMG_6177Again at five o’clock any stray day hikers cleared out, as though the bell rang for dismissal, and we had the lake to ourselves, in contrast to the well populated neighborhoods in the other two lakes. Amid the quiet solitude, broken only by our voices, or those of the aviary, we prepared a lovely meal, reconstituting our freeze-dried Santa Fe Chicken dinner with hot water, then rolling it and some Monterey Jack cheese into a burrito with tortillas that we had brought. With a Rosenblum Petit Syrah that we had poured in a water bottle before leaving home we luxuriated in our backcountry feast, Taira again showing her cooking prowess by assembling the freeze-dried raspberry crumble, a sweet, gooey delight topped with crushed chocolate crumble.

The best way to end a hike

The best way to end a hike

The next morning we ate breakfast, packed up and headed out, Chase leading the entire way down. We passed hordes of day hikers headed, no doubt to Middle and High Loch Leven Lakes. Though we would miss our secluded spot in the woods we had a firm destination in mind that spurred us on. We headed straight for the Rainbow Lodge and asked for a table for five in the white tablecloth-clad dining room. We drank gallons of iced tea and ordered huge platters of food, but our eyes were not bigger than our stomachs. I polished off a succulent half-pound hamburger, while Chase dug into a mountain of fluffy pancakes. Steve and Laura enjoyed eggs and toast, while Taira, the healthy one this time, munched through a Ceasar salad that would have stymied even a rabbit. Sated, we looked around the 32-room inn and admired old photographs of the area from the turn of the century showing Model Ts in the deep snowdrifts and some very long skis. The original stone and wood building dates back to the1920s and has served guests ever since. Granite fireplaces grace the common rooms, and there are several sitting areas where guests can relax.

IMG_6119We reminisced a bit about our trip, planned more adventures for next year, and made our shopping lists for REI to make the next trip more comfortable. Saying our good-byes we looked up at the granite slabs, now knowing what lay beyond the hidden peaks, already a bit nostalgic with memories of this year’s trip.

INFORMATION

Permits:
Permits are not required for overnight visits in the Tahoe National Forest. However, California Campfire Permits are required if using a portable campstove or building a woodfire. Permits and information about current fire restrictions are available from any Ranger Station or California Dept. of Forestry office.  More information can be found at the USDA Forest Service website at http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu/recreation/wilderness/granitechief.shtml

Forest Service information-Loch Leven Lakes: http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/tahoe/documents/rec/LochLevenROG.pdf

Rainbow Lodge
50080 Hampshire Rock Rd, Soda Springs, CA 95724
530-426-3661
http://royalgorge.com/Lodge.asp?d=1&fv=6&b=3&LodgeId=3

Schaffer, Jeffrey. The Tahoe Sierra: A Natural History Guide to 112 Hikes in the Northern Sierra. Berkeley, CA:  Wilderness Press, 2001.  http://www.amazon.com/Tahoe-Sierra-Natural-History-Northern/dp/0899972209/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1250869135&sr=8-1

Barging in on Big Bear Lake

Big Bear Lake

Big Bear Lake

The San Bernardino mountains offer a multitude of recreational opportunities for the huge populace of the Los Angeles basin. A short drive up Hwy 330 transports you from dry, desert environs to a high alpine wonderland. Big Bear Lake, at 6,750 feet, is a popular place in winter, at the base of a small ski hill, and in summer, for all manner of floating craft.

IMG_1246Recently we spent an enjoyable day boating on the lake with our friends Jim and Julie, who have a pontoon “party barge”, along with Cindy and Gail. We hooked up the trailer in Running Springs and headed off to Big Bear Lake. Arriving at a public boat launch we were pleasantly surprised to see that parking and launching were free of charge and parking was readily available. There was the usual jockeying of vehicles and small water craft as various groups dropped their toys in the water and pushed off. Sailboats, ski boats, kayaks, canoes, a paddle wheeler and a pirate ship that had been a prop in a movie, all joined the multitude of party barges to ply the waters, enjoying the blue skies and warm weather, surrounded by forested mountain tops.  Police boats were out in force, blue lights flashing, to assure safe boating and to tow any distressed craft.

IMG_1259We motored to the other side of the lake where protected coves offered opportunities for exploration. We anchored in one such cove and enjoyed lunch and some brewed libations before setting off for a tour around the lake, admiring large lakefront homes, unusual rock formations at Boulder Bay, before pulling up to a lakefront bar and restaurant.

IMG_1268A game of volleyball was well attended, especially by a pack of dogs respectfully honoring the defined edges of the court. A band was setting up so we placed our drink order, hauled some chairs down to the beach and settled in to enjoy the music. Unfortunately, the angry, head banger music seemed at odds with the relaxed nature of the afternoon, so we drank up and pushed off to continue our tour, passing a glaring white globe of an observatory and open meadows framed by pine trees.

The next day we enjoyed a classic diner breakfast at the Old Country Coffee Shop in Running Springs, complete with homemade biscuits and gravy and large plates laden with eggs, pork products and blueberry pancakes of an astounding diameter. Given California’s proximity to Mexico it wasn’t surprising to see menudo and huevos rancheros with homemade, spicy salsa side by side with the traditional breakfast fare.

IMG_1302We hiked up a trail in the San Bernardino National Forest, intersecting with the popular Exploration Trail, ostensibly a children’s trail, but able to be enjoyed by people of any age. Built by kids, this 4.5 mile trail winds through beautiful alpine backcountry and is open to hikers, mountain bikers, equestrians, and in winter, snowshoers. We encountered unusual granite formations, cedar trees, creekbeds and at the top, a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains against the backdrop of a clear, blue sky and the hazy valley spread out below.

IMG_1304The varied terrain of California means that in many places a high alpine environment is accessible within a short drive from the coast, and Big Bear is such a place, offering a alpine playground to those in the surrounding flatlands, providing clear mountain air and a respite from the dry, desert heat below.

INFORMATION

Information about lodging, activities and boat rentals, including pontoon barges, kayaks, canoes and other craft can be found at:

Big Bear Country
www.bigbearcountry.com/big-bear-lake-boat-rentals.html

Old Country Coffee Shop
32019 Hilltop Blvd
Running Springs, CA  92382
909-867-3100

Exploration Trail
National Children’s Forest
http://www.californiabeautiful.com/inland-empire/children%e2%80%99s-forest-exploration-trail-running-springs-california.html

San Bernardino National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/sanbernardino/

See previous post about camping in the San Bernardino area:
http://ingasadventures.com/2009/04/27/camping-with-kids-in-the-san-bernadino-mountains/

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