Inga's Adventures

Zihuatanejo Bay from Raintree Villa Vera pool

No matter how excited mountain residents are to see the first blanket of snow drape the jagged peaks with a soft winter coat, many are ready for a break from the short, cold days by mid-winter. Come January or February, after frequent storms have battered the psyche, many are dreaming of sunny, warm beaches and thoughts naturally turn to our neighbor to the south, Mexico.

Popular destinations for Lake Tahoe residents are Cabo San Lucas and other parts of Mexico. Zihuatanejo may not be the first place people think of but it has a lot to offer, including consistent temperatures, abundant activities and a laid back feel. When you throw in nearby Ixtapa (5 km from Zihuatanejo), with its active nightlife and manicured grounds, there is something for everyone.

The high season in Zihuatanejo is November to April, when the rains cease and the temperatures are consistently in the low 90s and the ocean water is in the high 80s. Sunny skies prevail and each day the sun rises over the cloudless, calm, blue waters of Bahia de Zihuatanejo (Zihuatanejo Bay).

Zihuatanejo was a sleepy fishing village, most famous as the long-dreamed of escape of Morgan Freeman and Tim Robbins in The Shawshank Redemption. When the planned resort community of Ixtapa was built in the 1970s, Zihuatanejo’s popularity boomed. It still retains its simple fishing heritage in the downtown core, with its bricked streets and walkways, chock full of eateries, internet cafes and Mexican artisan crafts, though the town has sprawled significantly from the core.

The local fishing fleet is still based out of downtown and a nearby pier provides access to water taxis that provide transportation for 35 pesos to Playa las Gatas (so named for the nurse sharks that used to swim these waters) on the other side of the bay, which offers excellent snorkeling around a protective reef. The pier is also utilized by cruise ships, which currently pull in every few days and offer shore excursions to Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa. Sport fishing for marlin, sailfish, mahimahi and tuna, which is very popular around Zihuatanejo, may be arranged at the pier, or any of the hotels will be happy to arrange trips.

There are numerous places to stay in downtown Zihuatanejo, nearby Playa la Ropa, and up a hill in Puerto Mio. There are many boutique hotels and numerous time-share exchanges through Raintree or RCI. Puerto Mio offers the advantage of being within walking distance of the town plaza, while Playa la Ropa (named for silk cloths that washed ashore one time when a Chinese ship wrecked off shore), while technically walkable, would likely involve more taxi rides.  Playa la Ropa is ground zero for water-based activities such as para-sailing and banana boat rides.

Being close to the plaza is a benefit if you enjoy mixing with the locals as there are activities going on almost every night. Every Sunday is Social Sunday, with live music, food stalls and kids running around after clowns in the basketball court.  Parades, plays, volleyball and basketball games can be found on other nights, when the locals come out to enjoy the cool of the evening.

Ixtapa, filled with luxury resorts, night clubs and restaurants appeals to those who prefer a more pristine, upscale experience and several off the resorts, such as Melia and Club Med, offer an all-inclusive package, which is perfect for families. Resorts in Ixtapa tend to offer many amenities, such as conference center, business center, multiple pools, children’s activities, and all kinds of water toys.

One of the best activities in Ixtapa is a short excursion to Isla Ixtapa, a small island off the north end of Ixtapa. A public pier offers water taxis for 35 pesos (US$2.75), and stops at 2 different beaches. The first, directly across from Ixtapa is a good swimming beach. The second stop, around the side of the island not visible from Ixtapa, is a good snorkeling beach, but an even better snorkeling experience can be found by walking a few steps across a spit of land to a bay that is completely hidden from view from the mainland. The snorkeling here is the best in the area, and the freshly grilled lobster is indescribably delicious. Massages on tables set up under the palm trees are available for 200 pesos (US$15). The 15 minute bus ride between Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo is 9 pesos (US$0.70).

Currently the only US carriers flying into Zihautanejo/Ixtapa are Alaska Airlines, US Air and Continental. The most convenient for Reno travelers are flights on Alaska Airlines, routing through Los Angeles, and US Airways connecting through Phoenix. Bay Area travelers will probably find Alaska Airlines the most convenient, connecting through Los Angeles.  United loyalists will soon have more options as Continental is joining United and US Airways in the Star Alliance.

See related articles on Mexico.

Photo by Inga Aksamit