Published in Romantic Traveling, Summer 2008 (Vol 18, No 2), www.romantictraveling.com
For my wedding anniversary this year my husband Steve surprised me with the perfect weekend getaway to the Sonoma coast, a destination located less than two hours by car from our home in San Rafael, California. His vague instruction to pack a windbreaker was the only clue that we might be going north, probably on highway 101.
Leaving San Rafael on a Friday afternoon we wound our way along the back roads of West Marin, finally stopping at the Hog Island Oyster Company in Tomales Bay. After selecting a bag of freshly harvested Kumamoto oysters, we continued up the coast. On this crystal clear October day ranchland gave way to twisty coastal Highway 1 where the sun shimmered on the Pacific Ocean on our left, while on the right, cows with mountain goat sensibilities contentedly grazed on steep slopes. Cows gave way to redwoods and from a distance I could see a mysterious tall, slender totem glinting in the sunlight.
We turned at the totem and I realized that we had reached my surprise getaway, the Timber Cove Inn. Long a rustic redwood hideaway for romantic coastal escapes, it was built in the 60s when hot tubs were the rage and every room has either a hot tub in the room or on the deck, or a soaking tub in the room. The massive timbered lobby with a roaring fireplace was in stark contrast to our recently updated cozy room with a hot tub and fireplace to drive away any coastal chill. Rushing to our oceanfront deck to catch the waning rays of the sunset over the water, we enjoyed our sumptuous sweet oysters accompanied by another of Steve’s surprises: a bottle of Chandon Blanc De Noir.
The next day, while strolling along some of the 26 acres of trails around Timber Cove Inn we discovered that the mysterious obelisk we had spotted from the highway was Benny Bufano’s Expanding Universe Sculpture. A beacon on land and sea, the 93 foot sculpture depicting a Madonna and a universal child was Bufano’s plea for peace. As we walked around the statue in this quiet oasis we couldn’t help thinking that his plea is just as poignant today.
In the afternoon we meandered up the coast and decided to turn off at a sign pointing to Annapolis Winery. Leaving the coast, heading east, the terrain abruptly changed from rolling coastal ranchland to steep redwood-forested hills. Coming out of the redwoods, a vineyard suddenly appeared and we made our way to the small tasting room. The motto of the winery is “quality not quantity” and we enjoyed a smorgasbord of reds and whites. We delighted in the unexpected discovery of a winery in the redwoods and made a mental note of the picnic grounds in the apple orchard with a future trip in mind.
In the evening, on the way to dinner at the Timber Cove Inn restaurant, we spotted a raccoon perched on the edge of the reflecting pool. From the corner of my eye I saw a second raccoon. And a third up in a tree. The masked bandits were everywhere. During dinner the show continued as raccoons scampered around a large illuminated tree, adding a touch of fantasy to our intimate candlelit dinner.
For our last day Steve had planned a visit to the Korbel Champaign Cellars in Guerneville as the perfect cap to a Sonoma getaway weekend. The entertaining tour took us through the colorful past of the Korbel & Heck families as well as every facet of methode champanois-produced champagne. The highlight, of course, is the generous champagne tasting at the end.
We reluctantly reached 101 after traveling a wonderful and varied loop that took us though some of the features that make Marin and Sonoma Counties unique: stunning views of bays, ocean beaches, coastal ranchland, redwoods, wildlife, comfortable lodging and wineries, all easily visited in a relaxing weekend.
Congratulations to Steve! It was a perfect anniversary getaway.
Getting There:
Hog Island Oyster Company
The oyster farm is located on Highway 1 in Marshall, about 15 minutes north of Point Reyes Station and 45 minutes south of Bodega Bay.
415.663.9218
http://www.hogislandoysters.com
Timber Cove Inn
21780 North Coast Hwy 1
Jenner, CA 95450
800-987-8319
http://www.timbercoveinn.com
Annapolis Winery
26055 Soda Springs Rd
Annapolis, CA 95412
707-886-5460
http://annapoliswinery.com
Korbel Champagne Cellars
13250 River Road
Guerneville, CA 95446
707 824 7000
http://www.korbel.com
